The wicker basket sleighs of Monte are just one example of the unrivalled attractions that Madeira has to offer.
Traditionally, the means of travel in Funchal, Madeira’s capital, did not include wheeled carriages. The uneven cobblestone roads, steep hills and sharp bends, meant that horse drawn carriages and, later, motor cars were regarded as inappropriate. Rather, the locals elected for various other, more exotic, means of transport.
Crude wooden carts, mounted on wooden runners, lubricated with grease and pulled at a placid pace by oxen were a favourite. These “carros de bois” were said to have been introduced to Madeira by a British Army Officer who required a means of transport for his invalid wife.
Whilst riding in the carros de bois was adequate on the flat, it proved to be an extremely slow way to climb the steep hills that dominate the countryside as soon as you desert the narrow coastal plain.
Another, solely Madeiran, means of transport was the travelling hammock. Here, a quantity of cloth resembling a hammock was slung between two long wooden poles. Two men, one at the fore and one to the rear, would lift the contrivance in a mode rather akin to that of a sedan chair. The passenger reclining in the hammock, usually a woman, was thus carried in what must have been a rather uncomfortable fashion.
The travelling hammock was commonly popular with British society women who were resident on the island in the eighteenth century. Often, to the enjoyment of their passenger, the hammock bearers would sing in their native Portuguese tongue as they made their way to the final destination. A gratuity for this extra service was customarily given. What the passenger did not realise was that occasionally the songs were extremely derogative of their customer. It is reported that on one occurrence the bearers of a rather stout passenger were singing to the effect: “The fare we are allowed to charge is fixed, but just look at the extent of this load!”
Monte, being situated high up on the mountainside above Funchal, was no exception when it came to the predominant forms of transport. Cumbersome oxen drawn carts and hammocks were the normal way to convey both people and goods.
Advancement, in more than one sense of the word, was long-drawn-out. The four kilometre passage down from Monte into Funchal would take anything up to three hours.
However, the road from Monte into Funchal was one long, abrupt, downward slope. Accordingly, it was little surprise that one day, some 160 years ago, one of the locals decided to explore a more radical means of conveyance. By mounting a flimsy wicker basket on two ski-like wooden runners it was shown that you could glide headlong down the hill and reach the city centre in a matter of just 10 minutes.
The strategy was simple. All that was needed was one thundering push to get going and someone to stand on the tailpiece to steer. In no time at all, you would soon reach speeds of up to 30 miles per hour.
Suddenly, there was a rapid, and inexpensive, means of transfer from the outlying mountain village into the commercial centre of the island – the snow less, Monte toboggan sled was hence invented.
As a profitable aside, the local inhabitants soon discovered that rich Europeans and Americans would take the journey just for entertainment – hence, the original Madeira tourist attraction was created. Indeed, Ernest Hemingway famously described his Monte toboggan wicker basket sleigh ride as the “most exhilarating experience” of his life.
Today, the traditional sound of wooden ski runners gliding over cobblestones persists, but they are for tourists only. Two carreiros guides, dressed in traditional white with straw hats, will thrust you down a contracted route from Monte.
There are no seat belts and the only brake you can rely on is the rubber sole of your driver’s shoe. The views can be beautiful, if short-lived and the usual souvenir photo awaits you at the end of the ride.
The journey is priced rather expensively by Madeiran standards. But, if you want to treat yourself to an experience that you are not likely to find anywhere else, then give the Monte toboggans a go.
Traditionally, the means of travel in Funchal, Madeira’s capital, did not include wheeled carriages. The uneven cobblestone roads, steep hills and sharp bends, meant that horse drawn carriages and, later, motor cars were regarded as inappropriate. Rather, the locals elected for various other, more exotic, means of transport.
Crude wooden carts, mounted on wooden runners, lubricated with grease and pulled at a placid pace by oxen were a favourite. These “carros de bois” were said to have been introduced to Madeira by a British Army Officer who required a means of transport for his invalid wife.
Whilst riding in the carros de bois was adequate on the flat, it proved to be an extremely slow way to climb the steep hills that dominate the countryside as soon as you desert the narrow coastal plain.
Another, solely Madeiran, means of transport was the travelling hammock. Here, a quantity of cloth resembling a hammock was slung between two long wooden poles. Two men, one at the fore and one to the rear, would lift the contrivance in a mode rather akin to that of a sedan chair. The passenger reclining in the hammock, usually a woman, was thus carried in what must have been a rather uncomfortable fashion.
The travelling hammock was commonly popular with British society women who were resident on the island in the eighteenth century. Often, to the enjoyment of their passenger, the hammock bearers would sing in their native Portuguese tongue as they made their way to the final destination. A gratuity for this extra service was customarily given. What the passenger did not realise was that occasionally the songs were extremely derogative of their customer. It is reported that on one occurrence the bearers of a rather stout passenger were singing to the effect: “The fare we are allowed to charge is fixed, but just look at the extent of this load!”
Monte, being situated high up on the mountainside above Funchal, was no exception when it came to the predominant forms of transport. Cumbersome oxen drawn carts and hammocks were the normal way to convey both people and goods.
Advancement, in more than one sense of the word, was long-drawn-out. The four kilometre passage down from Monte into Funchal would take anything up to three hours.
However, the road from Monte into Funchal was one long, abrupt, downward slope. Accordingly, it was little surprise that one day, some 160 years ago, one of the locals decided to explore a more radical means of conveyance. By mounting a flimsy wicker basket on two ski-like wooden runners it was shown that you could glide headlong down the hill and reach the city centre in a matter of just 10 minutes.
The strategy was simple. All that was needed was one thundering push to get going and someone to stand on the tailpiece to steer. In no time at all, you would soon reach speeds of up to 30 miles per hour.
Suddenly, there was a rapid, and inexpensive, means of transfer from the outlying mountain village into the commercial centre of the island – the snow less, Monte toboggan sled was hence invented.
As a profitable aside, the local inhabitants soon discovered that rich Europeans and Americans would take the journey just for entertainment – hence, the original Madeira tourist attraction was created. Indeed, Ernest Hemingway famously described his Monte toboggan wicker basket sleigh ride as the “most exhilarating experience” of his life.
Today, the traditional sound of wooden ski runners gliding over cobblestones persists, but they are for tourists only. Two carreiros guides, dressed in traditional white with straw hats, will thrust you down a contracted route from Monte.
There are no seat belts and the only brake you can rely on is the rubber sole of your driver’s shoe. The views can be beautiful, if short-lived and the usual souvenir photo awaits you at the end of the ride.
The journey is priced rather expensively by Madeiran standards. But, if you want to treat yourself to an experience that you are not likely to find anywhere else, then give the Monte toboggans a go.
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